Intent on finding good pizza in DC, I ventured to U street over the weekend with Mr. Michiels. After a little Internet investigation, my dining partner and I found 2 that looked promising: Ulah Bistro and Coppi's Organic Restaurant. We decided to check them out in-person before deciding, as they were only 2 blocks from each other. Proving that you can tell a lot about a place from appearances, we settled on Coppi's because of it's more home-y atmosphere, broader pizza menu and ostensibly cheaper price.
Food: After practically inhaling the soft, salty focaccia that was served complimentary, we started with an appetizer of stuffed squash blossoms. The blossoms were much smaller than any I've had in a restaurant before -- perhaps because they were organic -- but at least they served 6 or 7 of them instead of the usual 2 or 3. While larger blossoms make for a prettier presentation, the diminutive size allowed for the perfect all-in-one bite portion. The ricotta filling was both smooth and tangy, and well seasoned. The oven-seared finishing on the blossoms, however, created a bitter, burnt crust that overwhelmed the delicate flavor of the flower.
For the main course -- pizza, naturally -- we chose the Merguez, with lamb sausage, feta cheese, cucumber, rosemary, garlic and tomato sauce. (I think it was a good sign that all of the pizzas sounded so delicious, we had a hard time choosing.) If someone had told me that cucumber would make a good pizza topping, I probably would have laughed at them, but the cool, crunchy cucumbers provided a nice balance to the robustness of the garlic and lamb. The overall combination of flavors was surprising, yet not too strange that I felt alienated from the usual pizza-eating experience. The pizza was not dry at all (a big deal-breaker for me), and the sauce tasted like it would hold up on its own (on say, a Margharita). The pizza crust could have been slightly crispier, but still ranked high in my book. My dining partner noted that it seemed to get a little softer for the last few slices, perhaps from sitting in some oil on the bottom of our plate.
As the restaurant was out of our first choice of brandy-poached apricots, we decided on the chocolate zabaglione with fresh fruit for dessert. Upon being served, I was immediately disappoint by the 'fresh fruit', which consisted of probably about 3 strawberries sliced on top of the cream. More of a mousse than a true zabaglione, the cream was rich -- in the best possible way -- and clearly made with high quality chocolate. We ate all of it.
Price: At $28 for a large (14"), I found the pizza to be over-priced. The quality was great, but I've had pizzas that were just as good for less in NYC. Until organic food comes down to normal food prices (which are still high), it just won't be a practical choice for most people. Coppi's is no cheap pizza joint, but won't break the bank if you skip the appetizer and dessert, and share with a friend.
Atmosphere: Adorned with photos and memorabilia of the famous Italian bicyclist for which the establishment is named, Coppi's had an authentic Italian restaurant feel without being cheesy. The wood tables and dim lights provided a cozy and pleasant eating experience, equally suited for a date or hanging out with a group of friends.
Other: (Service) Our waiter brought out 2 glasses of wine when we had ordered a bottle. Instead of correcting the mistake and just bringing out a bottle, he said that if we ordered 4 glasses, he'd charge us the bottle price. My dining partner was turned off by the lack of professionalism, and didn't like the feeling we were going to be cheated out of getting what we were paying for.
Also, all of the waiters sported thin mustaches that made them look right out of a 1950s movie. What's the deal, Coppi's?
Final Grade: B+ (with lots of potential)
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